California kingsnake care

Before you get one

California kingsnakes are glossy, smooth-scaled constrictors from the south-western United States and north-western Mexico, usually banded or striped in black and white or brown and cream^4,3. Adults are usually 76–122 cm long, and the largest reach about 2 m⁴. The RSPCA says they can live for more than 20 years in captivity, while a veterinary manual gives 10–15 years as the average for kingsnakes^1,5. Kingsnakes sold as pets in the UK are captive-bred, and captive-bred reptiles are less likely than wild-caught ones to bite or carry parasites^1,5. Never release one: California kingsnakes have established an introduced population on Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands^4,2. Check local laws on snake keeping before you buy⁵.

Enclosure

The RSPCA asks for a vivarium the snake can fully stretch out in, at least as long as the snake and a third of its length wide and high, which means at least 100 × 33 × 33 cm for a 1 m snake¹. Sources differ here: one veterinary hospital says adults can be kept in a 20–30-gallon (about 75–115-litre) tank, though larger is better, and the MSD Veterinary Manual asks for at least 0.6 m² of floor per metre of snake^2,6. Welfare research points towards more room: corn snakes, a related species, were more active and stretched out in enclosures longer than their bodies, and a review concludes that snakes in general need space to extend fully^7,8. Kingsnakes eat other snakes, including other kingsnakes, so always keep one per enclosure^1,3. Make the vivarium escape-proof, and give hides at both ends, low branches to climb and a soil-based substrate to burrow in^1,2.

Heat and light

The RSPCA recommends a basking zone of 26–30 °C and a cool end of 21–24 °C, with the heat off at night so the vivarium can fall to about 18 °C¹. One veterinary hospital gives a warmer range, with a background of 27–29 °C, a basking site of 29–31 °C that should never go above 32 °C because kingsnakes suffer easily from heat stress, and nights down to about 24 °C². Control every heater with a thermostat, guard heat lamps, check both ends with a thermometer daily, keep under-tank heaters to no more than 30% of the floor and never use hot rocks^1,9. Kingsnakes are mainly active by day but may become more active at dusk or at night in hot weather¹. The RSPCA recommends low-level UVB giving about UVI 0.7 in the basking zone and none in the shade, on 12 hours a day, and advises asking a vet about lighting for albino morphs¹.

Humidity and water

The RSPCA recommends 40–55% humidity with a light misting each day, and one veterinary hospital gives 35–60%, using the higher end during a shed^1,2. If humidity stays too high, add ventilation, because respiratory infections in kingsnakes are usually caused by high humidity and poor ventilation¹. A hide with damp moss gives the snake a humid retreat¹. Provide a water bowl big enough for the snake to submerge in, and change it at least daily¹.

Feeding

Feed dead mice or small rats: hatchlings start on one pinky mouse every 5–6 days and move up to one adult mouse every 7–14 days, with prey slightly wider than the widest part of the snake’s body¹. One veterinary hospital suggests every 10–14 days for adults². Thaw frozen prey fully, bring it to room temperature and offer it with tongs; a chick about once a month adds variety¹. Live prey can badly injure or even kill a snake, so offer only dead prey^2,10. Weigh the snake regularly to catch weight loss or obesity, and expect some kingsnakes to eat less in autumn^1,2.

Handling

Kingsnakes can get used to handling, but they do not like being held for long¹. A stressed kingsnake may struggle, bite or release a foul-smelling musk, and may vibrate its tail like a rattlesnake^1,2. Scoop it up, supporting the whole body, never grab it, and leave it alone if it pulls its neck into an S shape¹. Keep sessions to about 10–15 minutes, wait 48 hours after a meal and avoid handling around a shed¹. Wash the smell of prey off your hands first, because the snake may try to bite, and keep other pets away¹.

Health and when to see a vet

Keep records of temperatures and feeding to show your vet, book a health check every year, and keep a new snake apart from others for 3–6 months^1,11,6. See a reptile vet if you notice:

• a snake that suddenly stops feeding, which can mean a set-up problem, illness or the start of winter brumation¹;
• abnormal droppings or weight loss, possible signs of internal parasites¹;
• mites, seen as small black specks or as a snake sitting in its water for long periods¹;
• signs of mouth rot or of a respiratory infection¹;
• old skin left over the eyes after a shed, which a vet should remove¹;
• burns, which usually come from unguarded bulbs or heaters¹⁰.