Western hognose snake care

Before you get one

The western hognose is a small, stout snake of the North American plains, from southern Canada to Texas, with an upturned snout it uses to dig for toads^13,4. Adults usually measure 38–64 cm and the largest recorded was about 1 m; females grow larger than males, and hognoses can live for up to about 20 years in captivity^14,1. Young hognoses can be slow to accept rodents, so one veterinary hospital advises buying a snake that has already eaten 3–4 meals². Buy a captive-bred snake: captive-bred reptiles carry fewer parasites, and wild hognoses are protected in some places, such as Illinois, where the species is listed as threatened^8,3. Hognoses have enlarged rear teeth and saliva that is toxic to their prey, and a few bites to people have caused marked swelling^3,5. Check local laws on snake keeping before you buy⁸.

Enclosure

Hognoses live on the ground and are poor climbers, so floor space matters more than height². Sources differ on the minimum: the Royal Veterinary College recommends at least 91 × 46 × 46 cm so the snake can stretch, while one veterinary hospital gives a 20-gallon (about 75-litre) tank for an adult^1,2. Both say the larger the better, and the UK government’s Animal Welfare Committee stresses that furnishings are not a substitute for space^1,2,10. Hognoses love to dig, so give loose substrate at least 5–10 cm deep, with a hide at the warm end and another at the cool end². Clip the lid shut, because they can push up a mesh lid with their snout².

Heat and light

Hognoses are active by day¹. The Royal Veterinary College recommends a basking spot of about 30–32 °C from a light that is on all day and off at night, with background heat so the vivarium stays above about 20–25 °C overnight¹. One veterinary hospital gives a gradient of about 21–29 °C with a hotter basking area of 32–35 °C, heating about a third of the enclosure². Control all heaters with a thermostat, guard them to prevent burns, check temperatures with a maximum–minimum thermometer and never use hot rocks^1,2. Both sources recommend a low-output UVB lamp on for 12 hours a day^1,2.

Humidity and water

Keep humidity low: the Royal Veterinary College gives 40–50% for western hognoses, with the water bowl at the cool end, and 50–60% for the eastern and southern species¹. One veterinary hospital notes that respiratory infections in western hognoses are often linked to the wrong humidity². When a snake’s eyes turn cloudy before a shed, raise the humidity a little, for example with a hide containing damp moss¹². Provide a water bowl big enough for the snake to submerge in, and change it daily¹.

Feeding

In the wild, western hognoses eat mainly toads and other amphibians, along with reptiles and their eggs, birds and small mammals³. In captivity they are fed mice, thawed and warmed to about 37 °C, starting on pinkies and moving up to large mice¹. Most adults are fed about once a week, and the Royal Veterinary College suggests that one mouse a week is enough for a 500 g snake^2,1. Hognoses are messy eaters that often swallow substrate with their food, so feed them in a separate tub to avoid a blockage². Between November and February many slow down for winter; keep offering food at the usual times and weigh the snake weekly². Live prey can injure a snake, so offer only dead prey^2,11.

Handling

When threatened, a western hognose flattens its head and neck, hisses loudly and strikes, usually with its mouth closed, then may roll onto its back and play dead^4,3. A pet that plays dead is stressed, so look for the cause². Defensive bites are rare, and most bites happen when a snake mistakes a hand for food: in a survey of Polish hognose breeders, 47.7% said a snake had tried to bite them and 31.4% fed their snakes by hand^4,2,6. Serious bites are uncommon, but some have caused marked swelling, bruising and blistering, one taking about five months to heal, and one patient also developed a low blood platelet count^5,7. Weinstein and Keyler conclude that hognoses should not be considered dangerous but should be handled carefully at feeding time, and the authors of the platelet case advise that bites be assessed by a toxicologist familiar with these snakes^5,7. Use tongs, and wash the smell of prey off your hands before handling^6,2.

Health and when to see a vet

Book a health check soon after you get a hognose and then once a year, and keep a new snake apart from others for 3–6 months^12,1,9. See a reptile vet if you notice:

• wheezing, open-mouth breathing, frequent yawning or bubbles at the nose²;
• a swollen face or scabs along the lips, as hognoses have fragile teeth and gums prone to infection²;
• trouble passing droppings after swallowing substrate, as a blockage can need surgery²;
• poor appetite together with other signs of illness, or weight loss over winter²;
• stuck shed or eye caps, which should never be forced off¹¹;
• burns, which usually come from unguarded bulbs or heaters¹¹.